Let’s get one thing straight: you don’t need a sommelier certification to know when a wine doesn’t belong.

You just need to put a delicate Willamette Valley Pinot Noir next to a smoked brisket burrito smothered in tomatillo crema and watch it collapse like a folding chair on soft sand.

Some flavors punch back. And when they do, you better pour something that doesn’t flinch.

I cook a lot with heat—hatch chiles, chipotle, poblano, smoked paprika, habanero when I’m feeling dangerous. I also use a lot of fat. Butter, pancetta, compound sauces that don’t know when to quit. That’s my flavor profile: bold, smoky, and a little unpredictable.

So my wine better show up ready for the same.

Rule #1: Big Flavors Deserve Structure

When I make my green chile pork shoulder—slow-cooked with roasted garlic, lime, and way too much cumin—I don’t want a wine that hides behind the plate. I want one that steps in like a good dance partner. Washington Syrah is a favorite here—look for something from Gramercy Cellars or Reynvaan Family Vineyards. Smoky, peppery, with just enough grip to play off the fattiness.

Another move? A Zinfandel from Dry Creek Valley, especially if you’re going sweet-spicy. Zin brings jammy fruit, a little booze, and a low-key cowboy vibe. You want the wine to swagger, not tiptoe.

Rule #2: Acid Is Your Firefighter

I love acid-forward whites with dishes that bring heat and fat in equal measure. One of my best pairings ever was charred shrimp with ancho-lime butter alongside a bottle of Eyrie Vineyards Pinot Gris from Oregon. Clean, stone-fruited, with enough bite to cut through the richness.

Same thing goes for anything with creamy or cheesy sauces—like my tomatillo-sherry cream over chicken and squash enchiladas. That’s a job for Albariño or a lean Chenin Blanc from the Sierra Foothills.

Got a green chile mac and cheese on the table? Try a Grüner Veltliner from the Santa Ynez Valley and thank me later.

Rule #3: Embrace the Sweet Side (Carefully)

No one wants a syrupy mess next to their plate, but when I’m working with fiery red chile and slow-cooked beef, a wine with a little residual sugar smooths out the punch.

Reach for Riesling—off-dry, not dessert. A bottle from Tatomer (California Central Coast) or even a Gewürztraminer from Elk Cove in Oregon does wonders. You’ll still taste the heat, but it won’t burn all the way down.

Same logic applies to smoky barbecue sauces, spicy sausage ragù, or anything involving jalapeños and cream. Sugar helps. Just don’t overdo it.

Bonus: The Grill Changes Everything

If there’s open flame involved, you need tannin and smoke to match. One of my go-tos here is Tempranillo from Amador County—big, rustic, and beautifully broken-in. Pair it with grilled tri-tip, pork belly burnt ends, or seared elk if you’re lucky enough to have some in the freezer.

I’ve also poured Cabernet Franc from Nevada (yes, Nevada) alongside a bowl of cowboy beans laced with pancetta and ancho chile. It worked like magic. Pepper, smoke, dirt, and depth.

Sometimes pairing isn’t about matching. It’s about mirroring mood. You taste that grit, and it feels honest. Like the wine and the food are telling the same story.

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A Couple Bottles I Always Keep Around When the Heat’s On

• Gramercy Cellars “Lower East” Syrah (WA) – Great with smoked meat, beans, or poblano anything.
• Tatomer Vandenberg Riesling (CA) – Tames habanero, balances chili oil, drinks way too fast.
• Eyrie Vineyards Pinot Gris (OR) – Plays nice with heat and acid. Shrimp, trout, grilled veg.
• Sobon Estate Zinfandel (Amador, CA) – Budget-friendly and built to handle spice + fat.
• Elk Cove Gewürztraminer (OR) – For when the sauce gets wild and you want a soft landing.

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Respect the Fire, But Don’t Bow to It

Pairing wine with spicy food isn’t about fighting the heat. It’s about tempering it. Lean into wines that have character—acid, structure, a little funk. Leave the shy wines for lighter days.

And whatever you do, don’t serve Sauvignon Blanc with green chile stew. That’s a pairing that tastes like betrayal.

Bring the heat. Pour with purpose.

And sip like you f’n mean it.